It has been eight years and counting for Nokomis. That’s a true mark of fashion retail success, especially for an independent women’s clothing store on Edmonton's Whyte Avenue. Showcasing an exclusive collection of clothing and product by Canadian designers, Nokomis was one of the first of its kind in Edmonton to offer unique clothing that’s not internationally outsourced, especially in a city famous for its big mall. Canada has seen a growth in its own fashion industry, evident in the large crop of young students interested in attending design schools and fashion colleges in the last few years. However, as the recession drags on longer and longer, the outlook of long-term financial success for young companies appears more and more bleak. That isn’t to say that it’s impossible for little Canadian fairy-tales to happen. Jessica Kennedy, owner of Nokomis, doesn’t follow trends, but the little company that could is still undeniably a leader in the Edmonton fashion community. She discusses with Steel Bananas how she has successfully made hip, independent fashion commercially viable enough to withstand the recession.
Photo courtesy of Nokomis Clothing
Your line says that you focus on showcasing the best of Canadian talent. What do you think Canadian fashion designers have that makes them different from other designers in the US or Europe?
I think Canadian designers really show their personality and independence. They’re not too worried about pleasing other people and when they design it’s something they do for themselves. When they make clothes, they make it for love, and it comes across with their branding, fabrics, colours and styles. There’s always a personal kind of touch to their clothes. Canadian labels are not necessarily caught up with the pressure of having big collections -- they’re okay being the size that they are, their bills are being paid -- there isn’t a big take-over-the-world mentality. Granted, some labels are household names, but it’s in a humble sense and they’re just happy to make this their career because they’re doing what they love.
There are a lot of fashion and business graduates today that want to follow your footsteps in becoming an independent entrepreneur. Since you’re also the buyer, how do you forecast what clothes or trends will be marketable for the upcoming season and decide which products to carry?
I have failed a few times, but generally I look at everyone’s collections and select the pieces that I love. If I love it, I know there’s someone else out there that loves it. Everything in Nokomis is handpicked by me and there is a curated feel to the store. I have a customer in mind, and I’ll try to relate my selections to these customers and these people. I don’t necessarily follow big trends or big colors. I really trust the designers that the pieces they have in their collection are saleable and wearable. I don’t have a mission to find certain trends, cuts and colors each season because I leave that to the designers. I follow that mission of loving certain items. Some pieces I buy are just irresistible and not as wearable, but they’re great for press. But my primary concern is that I need to know there’s a client out there that will wear the clothes if I decide to carry it.
In a world where fast-fashion and constant sales are needed to stay competitive in the industry, how do you think it affects Canada’s fashion industry, and the types of challenges faced especially by independent designers?
It’s tough for independent designers because it is fast-fashion they’re competing against, and there’s a lot of disposable fashion out there. As for their challenge, it comes down to re-educating the consumer and letting them understand how it’s better to spend more on one piece that’s well made and ethically made than something that’s made for the mall and that’s hot for now, but is going to fall apart. It’s about educating people in that sense that there’s a different way to consume and to consume with conscious ethics and morals. At Nokomis, we do need to stay competitive, so I make sure the clothes we bring in are made well and at a high quality and standard. It’s been a big challenge for us because when we first opened we had to give designers constant feedback. We worked with designers throughout the years to meet all our challenges on the sales floor and give the customers what they want.
Photo courtesy of Nokomis Clothing
How does Nokomis adapt to the changing economic climate to give their clients what they need, artistically and in a business sense?
It’s a tough balance for sure. Designers are aware that there is a recession going on, so it’s been a struggle for boutiques. Artistically, what we’re trying to do is work together with the designers and their product out there. Some designers are trying to have a more classic feel, classic pieces. What I’ve also been trying to do is use a lot of prints this season. They’re so irresistible. Everyone has black, so it’s nice to have some special prints this season. Designers are trying to make classic pieces, but we’re trying to mix old and new, and have a few special printed pieces for a woman so that she doesn’t need to reinvent her wardrobe. In a business sense, we’ve been promoting ourselves through the blog and Facebook.
As a buyer and someone who deals directly with customers on the sales floor, you obviously have a very good understanding of what women want to wear. What kinds of suggestions can you give to other young local designers who are hoping to catch a retailer’s attention to carry their designs?
I encourage designers to get feedback. Sometimes when you’re designing alone in a bedroom you don’t have an outsider’s perspective. Some local designers have friends over to look over their collection and point out some things the designer might not have noticed. Also, if you have an opportunity, go to a craft market so you can deal with the customer one on one. There are some beautiful designs out there but they’re just not practical, because they make your butt look big, or you can’t wear a bra with it -- it’s all about processing and fine tuning your collection and running it by a lot of people because that helps. What happens for designers is they’ll design for their body type but it has to be designed in a broader sense.
You’ve recently branched out your product line and started carrying small housewares and beautiful stationary. What else do you plan on branching Nokomis out to? Any future businees ventures or ideas?
I like the idea of having a department store feel where clients can come here and pick up cards and housewares, which is why we started carrying small housewares and stationary. I want to extend our price points -- we have cards for $4 and dresses for $400. If you follow our blog, we’re also moving towards other housewares such as pillows, aprons, and tea towels. No big plans to take over the world! We’ve had a tough couple of years like everyone, but I look forward to the day when everyone is back on their solid feet again. I know it won’t be the same as before, but at least we won’t be on our toes all the time.
Photo courtesy of Nokomis Clothing
What do you think inspires the look of the Nokomis woman?
I think she’s inspired by the art scene. Our customer is a bit more nerdy, and she doesn’t necessarily worry about fashion with the capital “F,” just the small “f.” She loves good food, the farmer’s market, going to the movie theatres around Whyte Ave. She’s also really ethically and socially aware, and appreciates the independent groove of our Canadian store.
I remember Nokomis used to have a Men’s line. With the growing interest in men’s fashion nowadays, do you think you’ll bring Men’s products back?
NEVER! I love our men customers, they’re very lovely people. But it’s a struggle to find Canadian produced men’s clothing. I know how to buy for women more because I can relate. With men, it’s a guessing game. Also, I know there are men out there that shop, but the men that I know are replacement shoppers -- I have a hole in my jean, so I’ll go buy a new pair of jeans. There are great fashionable men out there, but I don’t want to give out a rack of clothing when women want their full rack!
Now some more fun questions! If you had to choose a favourite trend of the season, what is it?
What I am loving is that there are a lot of great colors out there! The mustards and purples are fantastic. Also, all the patterns: stripes, prints, and florals… I have so many striped tops! It’s a nice way to give a punch to your wardrobe.
Most inspirational movie for the Fall?
I really want to see the Joan Rivers A Piece of Work movie. I bet it would be good. I bet I would put that one down if I saw it.
What is the Nokomis Fall soundtrack? Any song suggestions?
I like Provincial Archives a lot. They’re a local Edmonton band and they’re fantastic. The new album is beautiful. I really want to make Edmonton a place to live -- there are lots of great talented people here and we need to support each other.
What kind of animal would you want to be?
I think this season we would be the bison. They’re sturdy and strong and withstand the cooooold winters, and during harsh times they persevere and that’s what I want to be!
What is the most popular item at Nokomis?
The “Miss Ellie” sweater from Preloved. I’ve already sold out and had to re-order more. It’s a cardigan with a shawl collar and two little pockets on the side. It’s a fitted, beautiful sweater; most sweaters are big and bulky so it’s nice to have a fitted piece that’s also fashionable. The best thing about it is you get to choose which “Miss Ellie” sweater is best suited to you because they’re all one of a kind.
As for my favourite item, I would have to say my Eve Gravel “Leave Me Alone” leggings, I wear them all the time. They have a texture to them on top of the navy leopard spots and they’re ruched at the ankles. They’re great for building on top of something else.
Photo courtesy of Nokomis Clothing
What is the one item in your store right now that you think the smart, intellectual, literature nut, social activist, film buff, Steel Bananas-reading woman should have?
She’s right up our ally. She should come shop here! She might like the legging! You can throw them on with any dress or top. We also have a beautiful Eve Gravel dress called “The Edgy Kate Dress” that has a vintage feel to it, but is still modern. It’s a beautiful print, has ruffles and buttons down the front, and has a braided belt to go with it. It’s still classic, and a full sleeved dress is so hard to come by! It’s nice to wear a beautiful dress while doing a normal thing, like going to the movies, or going to a bookstore. I love when you can incorporate a beautiful dress into everyday.
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